{"id":14986,"date":"2023-04-17T13:03:48","date_gmt":"2023-04-17T20:03:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/marinlivingmagazine.com\/?p=14986"},"modified":"2023-05-26T13:01:49","modified_gmt":"2023-05-26T20:01:49","slug":"how-local-wineries-are-shifting-toward-sustainability","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/marinlivingmagazine.com\/how-local-wineries-are-shifting-toward-sustainability\/","title":{"rendered":"How Local Wineries Are Shifting Toward Sustainability"},"content":{"rendered":"

Remember that moment when we realized that the Slow Food movement of the late 1980s wasn\u2019t so much a move forward as a delicious stepping back? Its focus was on good, clean, whole foods, locally grown, prepared like our ancestors had done it, and appreciated when eaten. And somehow that age-old concept seemed revolutionary at a time when we had strayed so far from our roots.<\/p>\n

Enter a new green wave of the past informing the future in Wine Country. Sustainable, organic, biodynamic and dry farming \u2014 these are not new practices. \u201cSustainability is not a dirty word anymore, it\u2019s just how we are doing things,\u201d says Allison Wilson, director of vineyard operations at Cliff Lede Vineyards<\/a>. But the terms themselves can still feel confusing. Let\u2019s take a quick look at the differences and where the practices overlap.<\/p>\n

Sustainable winegrowing focuses on the care of people and place while conserving resources, as well as maintaining and regenerating soil. It also protects air and water quality, preserves local ecosystems and wildlife habitats, and enhances relationships with employees and communities for a healthy situation overall. Right now 99 percent of Sonoma County wine growing is certified sustainable and Napa is on a similar path.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe are a proud part of a community,\u201d says Baldacci Family Vineyards<\/a> estate winemaker Michael Baldacci. \u201cIt\u2019s more difficult to find someone not farming sustainably. Because what you do doesn\u2019t just affect you, it affects your neighbors, too.\u201d<\/p>\n

The organic label means a wine is made from organically grown grapes (sometimes third-party certified), without any added sulfites, synthetic chemicals or pesticides. Wilson says, \u201cI\u2019m a mid-millennial. Cliff Lede utilizes technology, but there is a real sense of getting back to basics. Like realizing over the last 50 years maybe we didn\u2019t need all that fertilizer.\u201d<\/p>\n

Biodynamic is touted as the highest level of organic farming. The elimination of synthetic chemicals is just the starting point. The vineyard is viewed as an entire ecosystem. Lisa Amaroli, director of winemaking at Benziger Family Winery<\/a>, who was at the forefront of biodynamics, recalls those early days when naysayers called their methods \u201cvoodoo,\u201d fixating on images of dung-filled cow horns buried in the earth. \u201cOne thousand years ago people were much more connected to nature,\u201d she points out. This type of farming is based on biodiversity of animals, plants, insects and even bacteria that work together. \u201cIt\u2019s about balance, not eradication,\u201d says Amaroli. Using homeopathic teas, composting, cover crops and animals that live on the estate \u201cis not mysterious, it\u2019s natural,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n

A lesser-known practice, dry farming, is becoming more and more common among winegrowers. Dry farming is the use of moisture stored in soil brought to the surface through tilling and is, by necessity, the future. But this centuries-old technique is also the past. Erik Miller of Breaking Bread Winery<\/a> in Sonoma looks to dry-farmed vines that have some age for the trending lower-alcohol style of natural wine he is making.<\/p>\n

\u201cOlder vines allow for physiological ripeness to come at lower sugar levels. And you can\u2019t dry-farm a five-year-old vine. The roots aren\u2019t deep enough.\u201d But just next door, fourth-generation dry farmer John Teldeschi has vines that are 115 years old with roots that go down 20 feet.<\/p>\n

Baldacci says, \u201cIt\u2019s just a reality that I will spend my career in drought. We\u2019ll be dry-farming and picking earlier. Pinot and cab are now picked at the same time.\u201d Larkmead<\/a>\u2019s Avery Heelan, one of the youngest winemakers at one of the oldest estate wineries in Napa, is dry-farming a small three-acre experimental plot with an eye to the most resilient varieties and clones that may suit Napa in the uncertain future. \u201cIt\u2019s trying to control the things we can\u2019t control,\u201d she says. One thing seems certain, though: the future begins with going back to our roots.<\/p>\n

\"harvested
Harvest time at Benziger Family Winery (Photo courtesy of Benziger Family Winery)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Interested in trying a few of the wines made with these practices? Here\u2019s a running start.<\/h2>\n

Baldacci Family Vineyards<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

(in transition to CCOF certified, California Certified Organic Farmers, 2023)
\n6236 Silverado Trail, Napa<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Benziger Family Winery<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

(triple certified, biodynamic since 2000)
\n1883 London Ranch Road, Glen Ellen<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Breaking Bread Winery<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

(lower-alcohol, dry-farmed, low-intervention natural wines, in transition to CCOF certified, 2023)
\n4791 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Cliff Lede Vineyards<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

(Certified Napa Green sustainable in both land and winery since 2015)
\n1473 Yountville Cross Road, Yountville<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Larkmead Vineyards<\/strong><\/a>
\n(research block planted in 2020, in transition to CCOF certified, 2023)
\n1100 Larkmead Lane, Calistoga<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Ram\u2019s Gate Winery<\/strong><\/a>
\n(California Certified Sustainable and Fish Friendly Farming certified, in transition to CCOF certified for 2023)
\n28700 Arnold Drive, Sonoma<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Round Pond Estate Winery<\/strong><\/a>
\n(Certified Napa Green sustainable and Fish Friendly Farming certified)
\n875 Rutherford Road, Rutherford<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Remember that moment when we realized that the Slow Food movement of the late 1980s wasn\u2019t so much a move forward as a delicious stepping back? Its focus was on […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":52,"featured_media":15087,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1769],"tags":[3581,3584,3523,960,3574,3011,1457,3578,3582,959,616,3583,3575,3579,239,2813,3580,199,3577,3585,3283,3576,3586,2133,1301,136],"yoast_head":"\nHow Local Wineries Are Shifting Toward Sustainability - Marin Living Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Several wineries you know and love are committed to not only making unforgettable wines, but making a positive environmental impact.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/marinlivingmagazine.com\/how-local-wineries-are-shifting-toward-sustainability\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"How Local Wineries Are Shifting Toward Sustainability - 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