Food & Drink
This New Seed Oil Alternative Is Both Sustainable and Healthy
Courtesy of Zero Acre FarmsThere’s something new sizzling in kitchens across the country … literally. We’re talking an all-purpose cooking oil that is paving the way for a future that’s less dependent on seed oils.
“About 20 percent of our calories come from seed oils, and they ’re one of the mos t consumed foods in the world,” says Jeff Nobbs, CEO and co-founder of the San Mateo–based company Zero Acre Farms. “But it’s not for their health benefits. It’s because they’re cheap and abundant.”
Seed oils, a type of vegetable oil derived from seeds, are frequently found in processed, packaged foods, but you’re almost certain to find these cooking ingredients in your own pantry, as well as in fine dining and fast food kitchens. Canola, corn, soybean, peanut and sunflower oils are among the most used, but as Nobbs explains, the overconsumption of vegetable oils has been linked to health issues like weight gain, diabetes and heart disease. Not to mention the production of these oils is a leading driver of deforestation and water consumption. And while there are alternatives to seed oils (avocado, coconut and olive oils are popular options but not without some drawbacks), Nobbs was interested in creating something that ticked all the boxes: multipurpose, neutral, healthy, able to stand up to high heat, and with a smaller environmental footprint. As it turned out, the secret to success was sugarcane.
It all starts in Brazil, with non-GMO, rain-fed sugarcane grown and harvested in areas where no deforestation has been identified. The raw sugar is fermented into oil, rather than heated and processed with chemicals, and then it’s pressed, purified and tested for quality before being bottled and distributed to consumers across America. And it’s not just home chefs who are buying up bottles from Zero Acre’s website; some very well-respected restaurant chefs are converts, too.
“It’s been a great workhorse oil for us,” says Stuart Brioza, co-owner and chef of State Bird Provisions in San Francisco. “It has a lot of versatility, so we use it for high heat cooking, like sautéing and roasting. But we also use it for vinaigrettes, aiolis and mayonnaise.”
Michelin-starred restaurants aren’t the only places taking notice; last year, two Shake Shack locations in New York City fried several menu items with the oil in a multi-month campaign, and Chipotle has invested in Zero Acre Farms through its Cultivate Next venture fund, all in the pursuit of a healthier, more sustainable future.
“Environmental changes are going to have a big impact on particular ingredients,” says Brioza. “So for a chef, it’s always important to be aware of what’s out there.”
In addition to its sustainable production practices, Zero Acre oil has more heart-healthy monounsaturated fat than olive and avocado oils, but less of the fats linked to health problems. Plus, its high smoke point (485°F) means it doesn’t easily break down into compounds that harm our health, unlike other cooking oils. Also noteworthy: Zero Acre oil is vegan, keto, kosher, gluten-free, soy-free and nut-free. And obviously, flavor plays a big role, but this oil is passing all the taste tests, sliding effortlessly into recipes where other oils fit before.
“It allows the flavors of the food to shine through,” says Nobbs, whose culinary experience outside the company extends to cofounding San Francisco and Oakland–based restaurant Kitava. “When you try it, you realize, ‘Oh, this is what neutral actually means.’ ”
